Tadjikstan 2

Time travelling

Have you ever had the wish to go back in time, just for once? I think we stepped into a timetravel machine when we crossed the border to Tadjikistan. There are more mountains here than people. Only in the little spots between the mountains where there's water, there are houses. You can already see it from far away marked by a big explosion of green grass and big fruit trees. Everybody is farmer and is growing his own food and is baking his own bread. In one of those villages we see a four year old boy, riding his donkey while he wistles at us. When we look at him, he sticks his thump up high in the air. An old man carrying wood on his back is making small talk with us. He isn't bothered at all that we can only speek five words in his language. With his hand crossing his heart and a big smile he waves us goodbye.

Unfortunately we have to leave Marco Polo's path for about two weeks; he travelled through Afghanistan, we don't. We do cycle for about three days next to the Afgan border, only separated by a big river, the Panj. We are waving hello to a lot of Afgan people walking with their donkeys, dressed in their 'Osama' suit .Their road is spectacularly built with rocks and trees against the cliff. We would not dare to cross it, but it is a magnificent sight for three days.

The road looks like it is from the old days most of the time. Sometimes it looks more like mountainbiking when we ride trough rocks, sand and holes. Our helmets are very useful against falling rocks between the big cliffs on both sides of us. We often experience a 'low battery' riding those mountains. To charge our battery again we ask for food at the nearest house, it's never a problem (for a little money). We are gestured to sit next to grandma in the garden with fresh yoghurt and warm bread. Meanwhile a few kids are sent to get some treats from the field (peaches, cherries etc). With full stomachs we can climb for another few hours. The water we drink straight from the streams, it tastes even better than the water at home.

All Tadjik people we meet are very friendly, laid back and they just let us be. It's no problem when we want to pitch our tent in their orchid or between their cows. Therefor we wake up at the most beautiful places, between cows, apricots or even at a beautiful blue lake. So far Tadjikistan is the most physically demanding part of our trip but also the most beautiful. And we even haven't started with the Pamir Highway yet. Can it even be more beautiful.....?!