Yunnan

The transition

Right on time we are out of the mountains: we have snow in the morning in Shangri-La. The narrow streets, lantarns and wooden houses give us a Christmas feeling. But it does not matter, from here we expect things to get warmer and easier, well?

In the cold rain we cycle south to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, an enourmous gorge in which the Yangtse river thunders. In two days we complete the hiking track on a high path above the gorge with a fantastic panorama. Then again we cross the gorge by bike on our way to the "Old Ferry".

After pushing and carrying our bikes on a small trail down we get to this smallest ferry to cross the Yangtse. Luckily, there's a horse on the other side to carry our bags up the bank.

The next day, when we have already been climbing on this steep muddy road for three hours, we discover to be in the wrong valley..It had to happen once! We are anxious to get to the right road, that one must be better. With a 40 km ascend on cobbles stones it is a bit better, but our progress remains slow. Exhausted we end up at a Naxi family's house. They have a spare room for us if we promise not to sleep in the same bed (we still look that energetic?)

On the way to Lijiang we leave the last snow capped mountains behind us. Lijiang is an old Naxi village with beautiful sites: small alleys, wooden houses, clear canals with goldfish swimming in it and old ladies selling corn on every streetcorner. In the morning the local ladies dance at the main square and at night we can see the (very) old man playing in an orchestra.

The cute little town is also ran down by rich Chinese tourists who party at night and vomit while standing on those beautiful small bridges. Poor goldfishes. Further south we can wear our shorts again as temperatures keep on rising. On the road to Dali we can see the first rice terrases. All of a sudden it changes fast: Instead of walnuts we eat coconuts, yaks change to waterbuffalos and we do not get to drink yakbutter tea anymore, now it is green tea.

To make the Chinese experience more intense we arrange Tai Chi lessons. At 7 in the morning we wait for our teacher in the dark, in his silk outfit he comes running with to Chinese students and calls: follow me! At a good pace we run up through the old town to the ancient city walls, where the sun is just rising above the mountains. Fully concentrated we try and copy the slow, graceful movements of Tai Chi. It is great to start the day like that and to stretch our legs differently.

In the middle of the forest we cheer as we pass 10.000 km's by bike! It appears to be a critical distance for some of our equipment since we experience the first real breakdowns. Both our cranks have a problem that needs fixing what makes us go 400km up and down to the next big city to get it repaired. One of our mattresses gets punched and a gearing outer cable gets broken. That part we did not take with us but we find an alternative solution: we put a splint on the cable with a used chopstick.

In the meantime our progress is still quite slow. We thought to have chosen a reasonable road south, but it changes suddenly to a cobble stone road to remain like that for three days. There is hardly other traffic (we understand why) and it is just us in the bush bush. Even Chinese tourists do not seem th get here and it is just us enjoying the views of the rice terraces. With incredible effort people work on the land, ploughing with their buffalos and planting the rice. It is not for nothing as we find the food here incredibly delicious.

Once we arrive to a bigger town (with asphalt) we are told that the road will get worse from here... There is not much we can do with this warning, it is the only way through. We still believe we have had the worst on the cobble stones. But mud, sand and stones do mean a worse road, while there is a lot of road construction going on. We proceed slowly and get very dirty but we are enjoying it. It seems like mountainbiking in the jungle and people passing on the motorbikes cheer at us.

Finally we go down through banana- and tea plantantions to the palm trees of Jinghong. The transition to South East Asia is almost complete. We will leave China in about a week and enter into Laos. What will that country have in mind for us?

Sichuan, China

Of the mighty mountain passes of Western Sichuan

Our route takes us in a southwesterly direction across the eastern Tibet plateau in the direction of Yunnan Province. Our travel guide has the following to say about this route:

"The Sichuan-Tibet Highway is one of the world's highest, roughest, most dangerous and most beautiful roads. As yet there isn't much in the way of tourist facilities."
"If possible, the disrepair of roads of the northern route exceeds those on the southern route and offers a real test of the mettle of any mortal who dares set upon them. The highlights are many, however."
Just what we are looking for...

The result of this choice is a simple list:
- 12 mountain passes above 4200meters
- 1200km at altitudes between 3000m and 4700m
- 17600 meters ascending
- 19 days of cycling

We can call ourselves lucky that we do not only enjoy the tour in hindsight. The valleys in autumn colours with their wild streams, the high mountain ridges, the downhills, the many Tibetan monestaries and the fantastic panoramas have pushed us to complete the route as long as we possibly could. Above all we met the nicest people at the moments we needed them most. The locals have received us in their houses and tents, where we were always welcome at their stove for a decent but simple meal. The other touristsm, mainly Chinese, have cheered at us from their jeeps at the highest parts of the passes while shooting videos and photos.

At the highest point of our journey at 4738mts at a scenic spot we see two tourist buses. It is already around three in the afternoon, our water supplies finished and the cold and icy wind made that we had not been able to find a good place for lunch. We know what will happen and we take this opportunity with both hands. We halt and I ask whether we can get some water while Janneke desperately asks the driver if the road will finally descend from here. While we drink the water we got and open a package of cookies the Chinese cannot hide their compassion anf start searching their cars. We get two bars of Toblerone (!), rolls, an apple and more water and better cookies. Apparently we make a good opportunity for a photo shoot: hundreds they take.

The local Tibetan population has also received us very warmly. Living in a windy tent at 4200mts their camp lies at the right place for us. Tired we descend a bit into the grassland and arrive at the families. All of them want to help pitching the tent, have a try on our bikes and all together we collect the yaks for the night. We make fun with photo and video camera and around the stove we enjoy a wonderful evening. As we have just lied ourselves in our tent we hear the family singing and praying for the night.

For conquering the high passes we have found our own routine: in the last village we buy food for a couple of days: oatmeal with milk and apple for breakfast, instant noodles for lunch and rice with a can of fish and some vegetables for dinner. The higher passes we cannot take in one day as our energy is depleted after climbing for 1200 to 1400 meters. A fewe hundred meters under the pass we find a good place for our tent, preferably close to clean running water. After a smooth routine to prepare the tent for the night, we shift quickly to preparing our meal. I cook on the stove and Janneke cuts the vegetables. In about half an hour we hide for the cold in the tent and eat. After that we quickly cook water to wash, make tea and most importantly to prepare a hot bottle for Janneke's sleeping bag. At night it freezes, but luckily our sleeping bags are fantastic. In the morning we prepare breakfast, remove the ice from the tent and wait until the sun reaches us before we can start packng our bags. Beginning the day with gloves and wearing all clothers we are ready for a new day of cycling.

Despite all our efforts we get into a time squeeze. Our visa expires nearly and Shangri La in Yunnan Province is the nearest town where we can extend. The detour from the beginning in Sichuan and the tougher than expected journey have costed too much time. Above that Janneke cannot see any mountain pass anymore, although she has focussed fantastically and motivated herself to reach Litang by all means. After a day of rest she agrees even to three more days of cycling and climbing to the border of Yunnan, what a power of will she has! In Xiangcheng we finally have to surrender and we take a bus for the last 200km.

Now we have arrived to Shangri La. It is a beautiful, but cold town at 3300mts with wooden houses. We have found a luxureus lodge with heating, western toilets and an electric blanket in a wonderful bed with clean white linen. This finally makes Shangri La a true paradise on earth!

Gansu & Sichuan, China

A Taste of Tibet

On our way heading south we cycle around the Tibetan plateau for the most part. In the provinces of Gansu and Sichuan a large part of the inhabitants are Tibetan. Soon after crossing the Yellow River we enter a world largely Tibetan. In ever greener surroundings little villages lie on our way decorated with prayer flags, stupas and monestaries. On the first pass we follow the locals in their habit of throwing paper money in the air for good fortune. This act we will not regret.

High in the mystic Ganjie Grass landslands we ride. In a little village we charter two Tibetan motor bikers to take us to a remote monestary. Behind the monestary lies a buddhist cave in which we descend together with some pelgrims. Everywhere white flags and holy stones. We do as the pelgrims and touch stones, circle others and drink holy water. Down in the cave one of the pelgrims sings some Tibetan prayer as loud as he can and we shiver.

We come closer to the most important buddhist city in the Tibetan world after Lhase: Xiahe. In the last weeks we had already heard that it might be closed for foreigners but we assume it is just rumours (and play stupid). Cold after the downhill into town we arrive late in the afternoon at the checkpoint. It's closed indeed, but the english speaking official (who has lived in Holland for 3 months) feels sorry for us. After a lot of phone calls we are put in a gouvernement hotel. "and' the official says, 'maybe you feel sick tomorrow, you can spend one more night'. The following day we feel sick and we visit the famous Labrang monastry. We walk our round of prayer wheels and watch the astrology class of the monks. The monks are very surprised to see us. We really are the only foreigners who visited Xiahe in 6 months. As yet we had not realised how lucky we really are.

Further south we see a lot more (armed) checkpoints. At the 3th point they will not let us trough after a lot of talking, we have to go back north. Maarten: "maybe this would be the right time to start crying Janneke". Full of tears I leave the checkpoint and indeed: within 5 minutes a police car comes to tell us that we can spend the night at their post. Surprisingly they let us travel south, but only by bus. In the next town we are picked up at the bus stop by the police and put in a truck. At the end of the prefecture they let us out, right on a high and deserted pass. It's already getting late and still 60 km to a town. We are kind of flabbergasted by al the events taking place in the last 24 hours, whats going on?! The reasons they gave us: bad road, bad weather, landslides even the earthquake do not make sense at all. We suspect it's all about problems with the Tibetan people living in this area. Luckly we can put our tent between 350 yaks on the grass. In the tent of the Tibetan family we're having some yak butter tea like in Tadjikistan.

In the town everybody is really surprised again to see us . How did you get here? That area has been closed since march! You must be very special. Suddenly we feel very proud and we do realise how lucky we are (again!).

To avoid the earthquake area we have to make a big detour, completely off the beaten track. For days we cycle through big forests with only rare villages. For the two strangers they open the doors to an old temple to show us the beautiful paintings inside. Afterwards we make a round of prayer wheels behind the monks, for a bit more luck.

In the next valley where there are houses like castles, we try to find a place to sleep. How sad to find out all the inhabitants do not dare to live in their houses anymore after the quake. There are tents behind the small village where they live. We feel sorry to bother them but they will not let us go. We can put our tent next to theirs and they almost fight about in who's place we can have dinner. They bring us an extra matress and warm blanket to put in our tent. Eventhough it rains the morning we leave, all the peolple wave goodbeye until we're completely out of site. How did we get this lucky?

Gansu, Qinghai

About deserts, the great wall, Sleeping Buddha's and high mountains

These last weeks were the last that we cycled on the silk road. The variety of landscapes and weather conditions we've seen in the last four months, were all coming back in just these few weeks. The biggest part of the route was through the Gansu-corridor, the only way through for all the caravans on their trading route. From Dunhuang we entered the corridor through the Gobi-desert and we left it by crossing the high Qilian-mountains.

Dunguang is an oasis, famous for its Buddhist Mogao caves and the sand dunes with the Crescent Moon lake at the edge of town. After many months of moslim art and architecture we now gaze at ancient murals en 36 meters high Buddha statues. These caves were ordered to be made by wealthy merchants, to pray for a safe journey on the silk road or to thank for a safe return and good trade.

From Dunguang to Jiayuguan we cycle through the Gobi desert. There are many oasis and the weather is okay, making it bearible. The tougher the circumstances, the more compasionate people are. On a hot and dry day, we get bottles of water and big melons besides the many 'thumbs up' from car windows. We do worry when all of a sudden the skies turn black/ yellow and the wind strengthens. Everything looks like a sandstorm is coming our way! We've read that sometimes they can last for three days.. It's another 15 km to a village and with the strong wind in our back we paddle as fast as we can. Just a few minutes before we reach safety, the storm catches us.

There are two more silk road cities on our way; Jiayuguan and Zangye. The caravans used to long for Jiayuguan. This point marked the beginning of the civilised (chinese) world and all the big dangers were left behind. This is where the Great Wall starts with an impressive fort wich used to control the whole corridor. In Zangye we find the biggest sleeping Buddha of China in a beautiful temple. We also discover that Marco Polo used to live in Zangye for one year when we find his statue in the centre of town.

From Zhangye we change our direction since months; we're heading south! We have to cross the Qilian mountains. It looks like a big farm up here, everybody's working on the feelds using only hands, yaks or cows. They do stop their work to look at the passing bikers. The harvest lies neatly packed on the fields, on the trucks or on the back of donkeys. Not a piece of land is unused and even on the steep hills they build terraces with simple but genieus irrigation systems.

We pass Mati Si, a secred buddhist place where we stay for a day to soak up the autumn. Ahead of us lie the big mountains. We do not know how many passes we have to cross or how high they are. It turns out there are three very high and very cold passes (around 3700 mtr). The road is very good, ascending slowly so we can climb without any problems. In the morning weather is clear and the vieuw is breathtaking; snow on the high peaks but the sheep and yaks are still grazing at the grasslands. Most people are Tibetan or Hui (muslim) and they cheer us very warmly.

We are now in Xining, having a rest and visiting a tibetan monastry, Ta Er Si. About 700 monks live in this beautiful place with its special atmosphere.
After five months we will leave the silk roads, heading south in the direction of Sichuan and Yunnan provence. Many high mountains on the way and autumn chasing us....Our adventure continues!

P.S. For those of you who haven't discovered our photo's yet: in the right collum on our website you'll find the links to all our pictures (and statistics). You can also click on this one: http://picasaweb.google.com/maartenhovers (photo's) http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pz5aK4ejq4Ozr_N3gIfyGMQ (statistics)

Xinjiang

Travelling as a lazy tourist

Once in China we celebrate our accomplishment of the last 4 months. In Kashgar everything is available what makes us enjoy the food, sweets and chocolates the first couple of days. Zapping the television channels we enjoy our luxurious hotel and freshly washed clothes.

The next couple of weeks we won't cycle much as we will leave our bikes in Urumqi from where we will fly to Beijing to see the Olympics. Very shortly we will return the Netherlands for Jorrit and Nienke's wedding and the retirement party of Maarten's parents. After these festivities we return to Urumqi and part two of our adventure will start.

The province of Xinjing is unlike many parts of China. This is Uighur land and it resembles Central-Asia. Many farmlands but also deserts and mountains and very few big, modern cities. These days we travel as lazy tourists, taking taxis to and from nice places. We visit Kashgar's livestock market where there is more action than in a zoo. In the morning carts arrive with small animals ready to be sold (and eaten). Open trucks with giant bulls arrive and Uighurs chase escaping goats. Men make trail runs with a donkey cart and all sheep are ordered colourwise. Just around the corner we enjoy the freshest kebab ever.

We also make a sidetrip to Karakol, a deep blue lake at the foot of the mighty Mustag Ata (7700mts). We drive for a few hours on the Karakorum Highway in the direction of Pakistan. The road is very scenic, but the sight is hindered by a sandy mist. A storm in the Taklimakan desert has swept too much sand into the air. We still enjoy the scene and make a long ride on a small horse around the lake. In the evening we stay in a yurt and eat watermelon with the Kyrgyz family, all of us sucking in the juice with great noises. Just before heading back to Kashgar the yurt owner brings a sheep for the driver which is unwillingly put into the trunk. At least the poor animal has made one ride in his life along the Karakorum highway.

We cross the Taklimakan desert by train and arrive in the hottest city of China, Turpan. The combination of heat and melting water made the region famous for its huge and delicious grapes. Many streets in the city are covered with grapes and make a good shelter against the soaring heat. In grape valley we chill out with fresh grapes, raisins and a bottle of red wine!

Upon our arrival in Urumqi we start longing for some cycling again and a plan is made by Maarten. From Urumqi we take a taxi for 120km to Heavenly Lake from where we will cycle back. But first we make our way up for 20km to the lake where we swim in the turquoise glacier lake. During the ride back the climate changes gradually but quickly and we end up in a desert with camels while we can still see the snow-capped mountains. The Chinese roads are very good with a good speed we end up in the modern city of Urumqi.

We fly to Bejing for one week of Olympics and we did not expect to experience the biggest culture shock in that city, more precisely in the Holland Heineken House. It takes some time to get used to the drinking and singing Dutch all dressed up in orange, but in the end we easily blend in. We are lucky to witness the golden and silver rowing medals and we join the party with our crown prince when the Dutch field hockey ladies make their way to the final. In the Birdsnest we enjoy two evenings of athletics. It was great to see so much sport-emotion during the games.

Part one of our adventure ends like it started, a Philips colleague of Maarten gives us a good treat. Ernst and Kim receive us in their house and we enjoy Dutch goodies like bread, peanut butter and hagelslag. Great!