Sichuan, China

Of the mighty mountain passes of Western Sichuan

Our route takes us in a southwesterly direction across the eastern Tibet plateau in the direction of Yunnan Province. Our travel guide has the following to say about this route:

"The Sichuan-Tibet Highway is one of the world's highest, roughest, most dangerous and most beautiful roads. As yet there isn't much in the way of tourist facilities."
"If possible, the disrepair of roads of the northern route exceeds those on the southern route and offers a real test of the mettle of any mortal who dares set upon them. The highlights are many, however."
Just what we are looking for...

The result of this choice is a simple list:
- 12 mountain passes above 4200meters
- 1200km at altitudes between 3000m and 4700m
- 17600 meters ascending
- 19 days of cycling

We can call ourselves lucky that we do not only enjoy the tour in hindsight. The valleys in autumn colours with their wild streams, the high mountain ridges, the downhills, the many Tibetan monestaries and the fantastic panoramas have pushed us to complete the route as long as we possibly could. Above all we met the nicest people at the moments we needed them most. The locals have received us in their houses and tents, where we were always welcome at their stove for a decent but simple meal. The other touristsm, mainly Chinese, have cheered at us from their jeeps at the highest parts of the passes while shooting videos and photos.

At the highest point of our journey at 4738mts at a scenic spot we see two tourist buses. It is already around three in the afternoon, our water supplies finished and the cold and icy wind made that we had not been able to find a good place for lunch. We know what will happen and we take this opportunity with both hands. We halt and I ask whether we can get some water while Janneke desperately asks the driver if the road will finally descend from here. While we drink the water we got and open a package of cookies the Chinese cannot hide their compassion anf start searching their cars. We get two bars of Toblerone (!), rolls, an apple and more water and better cookies. Apparently we make a good opportunity for a photo shoot: hundreds they take.

The local Tibetan population has also received us very warmly. Living in a windy tent at 4200mts their camp lies at the right place for us. Tired we descend a bit into the grassland and arrive at the families. All of them want to help pitching the tent, have a try on our bikes and all together we collect the yaks for the night. We make fun with photo and video camera and around the stove we enjoy a wonderful evening. As we have just lied ourselves in our tent we hear the family singing and praying for the night.

For conquering the high passes we have found our own routine: in the last village we buy food for a couple of days: oatmeal with milk and apple for breakfast, instant noodles for lunch and rice with a can of fish and some vegetables for dinner. The higher passes we cannot take in one day as our energy is depleted after climbing for 1200 to 1400 meters. A fewe hundred meters under the pass we find a good place for our tent, preferably close to clean running water. After a smooth routine to prepare the tent for the night, we shift quickly to preparing our meal. I cook on the stove and Janneke cuts the vegetables. In about half an hour we hide for the cold in the tent and eat. After that we quickly cook water to wash, make tea and most importantly to prepare a hot bottle for Janneke's sleeping bag. At night it freezes, but luckily our sleeping bags are fantastic. In the morning we prepare breakfast, remove the ice from the tent and wait until the sun reaches us before we can start packng our bags. Beginning the day with gloves and wearing all clothers we are ready for a new day of cycling.

Despite all our efforts we get into a time squeeze. Our visa expires nearly and Shangri La in Yunnan Province is the nearest town where we can extend. The detour from the beginning in Sichuan and the tougher than expected journey have costed too much time. Above that Janneke cannot see any mountain pass anymore, although she has focussed fantastically and motivated herself to reach Litang by all means. After a day of rest she agrees even to three more days of cycling and climbing to the border of Yunnan, what a power of will she has! In Xiangcheng we finally have to surrender and we take a bus for the last 200km.

Now we have arrived to Shangri La. It is a beautiful, but cold town at 3300mts with wooden houses. We have found a luxureus lodge with heating, western toilets and an electric blanket in a wonderful bed with clean white linen. This finally makes Shangri La a true paradise on earth!